Nos 1969 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1 Boss 302 429 Hood Latch Hardware Kit Concours

Our team hither at Expressionless Nuts On has spent countless hours collecting various facts most 1969-1970 Mustangs. Beneath is some of the parts and other weird information that we've gathered over the years. Enjoy

Power Brake Principal Cylinder

Production principal cylinders for 1969-1970 Mustang/Shelby with ability disc brakes are identified by a dimple near the front outlet (1), Bendix logo and 2227161 was cast in the bottom (2) and a dome hex head bolt (piston stop) on the lesser (iii) The master cylinder, restriction booster and cap were painted semi-gloss black equally a whole unit. Plugs were used to keep spray paint from the threaded outlets and so you will encounter a round blank steel circle around each exit.

In the upper picture (original 7K mile Shelby) you can run across that it didn't take much brake fluid to remove the calorie-free coat of blackness paint on the master cylinder itself although a white pigment dab did survive.

Boss 429 only notes: Boss 429's had a unique primary cylinder with a 15/xvi" piston bore, larger outlet ports (9/16" forepart / 1/2" rear), hex headed finish spiral, and a 2227091 bandage on the bottom. They besides had a used unique brake pedal and back up identified by a spray painted orange dot.

Why are they unlike from the standard Mustang disc brake master cylinder?
The bore size was reduced to create the required fluid force per unit area with the unique Boss 429 brake booster and pedal geometry.

Reproduction Primary Cylinders:
1967-68 Standard Disc Brake Master Cylinder w/decal
1969-70 Standard Disc Brake Primary Cylinder w/correct chapeau
1969-70 BOSS 429 Disc Restriction Primary Cylinder (coming soon)
1969-70 Master Cylinder Cap

Rear Tie Downward Brackets

The rear tie-downward brackets were a piece of hardware that should not be on your motorcar but it normally was. This is considering they were supposed to exist removed past the transportation or dealer prep guys earlier the car was delivered to the customer per the decal placed on the rear license plate mounting location. The ones shown in this picture are the duel frazzle type, the single exhaust type doesn't have the third mounting tab and they are smaller. We doubtable most of them stayed on the cars because the credit given for there render wasn't worth time it took to remove them. The originals had a bare steel finish and the bolts/nuts were phosphate plated. It'south not uncommon to come across original duel exhaust cars that only accept the two bolts that go through the frame to continue the subclass in identify.

Available Reproductions:
Necktie downs
Tie down hardware kit

Trunk Buck Bolt & Washer

The previous picture of the rear tie down bracket showing the two round paint less areas on the rear frame rails were created past assembly line body buck contact points. During associates the Mustang body was mounted to a special frame "trunk buck" that carried the car down the line every bit it was assembled and painted. This bolt and washer was used to attach the trunk to the assembly line buck. The factory buck commodities shown here with heavy paint build up from years of over spray was plant by Ed Meyer many years agone. It'southward one of three known to exist. The washer shown was never removed from Pat Whalen's Dearborn built 1970 Dominate 302 and so nosotros know its exact measurements (ane.750" OD and .500" ID). Lower picture is a body buck rail from the Ford Plant.  This body buck is role of Bob Perkins drove.

What is a Dearborn Radiator Cap?

Information technology's the radiator cap that came on all (exceptions may exist) 1969-1970 Mustangs built at the Dearborn Michigan plant. This is one of several parts that are considered establish-specific. Ford had several vendors for each common critical part and sometimes the vendor closest to the plant became that institute's sole supplier if they were able to continue up with that found'southward needs. Originals are nearly impossible to locate and are very expensive. I have posted this picture and then you can see the differences between the reproduction and the original.

1969 vs 1970 Hood Latch Strikers

The 1969 hood latch striker was phosphated and the 1970 striker was zinc dichromate plated. Both volition office on either yr. It'southward easy to tell them apart when they are together. I always look for the area pointed out with the arrows shown to tell the deviation. It should exist noted that we take constitute both strikers on late 1969 and early 1970 production Mustangs. We have also found that nigh all Shelby's made in belatedly 1969 production had the 1970 type of striker.

Radiator Support Subclass

We are ever asked what is the right upper radiator support bracket for my car? The brackets are exactly the aforementioned except for the screw mounting section was bridged in 1970. We suspect Ford had some kind of bug with the 1969 subclass (C9ZZ-8A193-A & C9ZZ-8A193-B) so they merely bridged the mounting section to ameliorate it'southward force and gave information technology a new engineering number (D0ZZ-8A183-A). Nosotros have never seen a 1969 bracket fail in whatever way merely maybe in extreme conditions it did so information technology was improved for 1970.

1969 vs 1970 Leafage Spring Shackles

In 1969 the rear leafage bound shackle used fine threaded stud but in 1970 Ford engineers changed to a coarse thread (sixteen) and the threaded portion of the stud was likewise longer. Other than these pocket-sized changes nothing was unlike. Maybe this "production enhancement" was fabricated to make the shackle more than durable, coarse threads are more tolerant of abuse and will assemble and disassemble more easily and quickly than fine threads and are less probable to cantankerous thread. In 1971 the thickness of the shackle plate steel was increased considerably and they went back to a fine thread. Subsequently 1970 Ford serviced 69-70 shackles with the 1971 shackle (D1ZZ-5630-A) so finding any right NOS shackles for 1969 and 1970 Mustang/Shelby is very difficult. Correct stop is bare steel.

Front License Plate Bracket

As y'all can see there is a big difference betwixt a NOS (service part) version and an original production front end license plate bracket. The kickoff thing I wait for on originals is the deep groove in the middle and a date code. The pictures really explain the differences so you don't actually need me to blubber on what the differences are.

Front end Turn Point Lights

Every bit you can run across the 1969 front plough signals housings were plated zinc dichromate and the 1970 housings were silvery zinc. The bracket/housing consist of 2 pieces spot-welded together. The rear department of the two-slice housing used to mountain the lens is the same betwixt the 2 years (except for engineering number) but the bracket section used to mount the associates is very different (see picture). The lenses are exactly the aforementioned except for the SAE year code. The only lens reproduced today is the 1970 lens. The 1969 lenses are very difficult to find today since they just were serviced for ane twelvemonth until they were superceded by the 1970 version. The 1969 wire harness has three wires, ane extra wire for a ground. 1970 versions and later on 1969 NOS (service parts) just came with two wires. Merely real early 1969 Ford Autolite service versions had three wires. This is the easiest manner to tell if you lot accept truthful production 1969 front end turn signal lights. The 1970 production wire harness had a blue rubber socket. 1969 production wire harness came in iii slightly unlike configurations only they all had 3 wires and blackness prophylactic parts. Many collectors are confused when it comes to determining the correct plating for their front turn signals because over the years Ford would service both years with silvery zinc brackets and then later service them both with yellow zinc brackets. This is some other good example why you should e'er question anyone who uses NOS parts to testify a correct finish or structure.

Product U-joints

Production C3AZ-4635-Thou, C3AZ-4635-H u-joints are easily identified considering the center is dished out on each side and in that location is no grease zerk. On ane side you volition usually find a faint Ford logo simply non e'er considering the forging die was dingy or just worn out (see lower picture).  Its common to find a tiny redish orange and purple paint dob in the center of production originals.

These u-joints are very rare today considering they where simply constitute on production driveshafts and older NOS service replacement driveshafts.

Is your motorcar judged? Zerkless u-joints are good for one point in MCA concours classes.

This is another case where product parts were non the same every bit service parts.

We recently reproduced these u-joints if you lot demand a ready. Click on the role #'south beneath.
C3AZ-4635-Grand  Front
C3AZ-4635-H  Rear

Contrary Lights

Departure Between Production & NOS

Production reverse lights and Ford service (NOS) reverse lights are not the alike. The housing is the same but the lens would be incorrect for 1969 cars and the wire harness was thinner in construction they used decals for the applied science number instead of stamping the wire itself (see exploded view of wire).  There were many changes in the wire harness while the fill-in light was serviced by Ford over the years but it never looked exactly like the product version.

Thick or Thin?
Fill-in lights changed to a thicker lens starting on 2-28-69 (per Ed Meyer) by calculation 2 thin 69 lenses. The Master parts catalog put the alter over date to the thicker lens on 4-7-69. It may be impossible to say exactly when the cutting over appointment occurred since it would hinge on when the remaining stock of thin lens was exhausted. Co-ordinate to Ed and the MPC y'all would exist safe to use the sparse lens earlier two-28-69, double-upped lens from 2-28-69 thru 4-7-69 and the thicker lens later on 4-vii-69. You can find plenty of NOS lxx lenses effectually simply it's difficult to detect a set of NOS thin 69 lenses because they simply serviced them for less than a year. One way to get a NOS looking set of thin 69 lenses is to find an original set of backup lights that were doubled up and use the lower lens.

Right or Left?
Ford made a correct and left versions because the rear valance is rounded slightly. Y'all tin can tell the difference past the main housing itself and by looking on the back of the master housing for an R or RH and L or LH cast into the housing.

But Weird
We institute one documented original San Jose 69 Mach one congenital on 3/18/69 that had three 69 thin lenses stacked. The outside lens protruded out from the chrome housing. When the possessor took the lenses off he plant the lower two lenses were like new.

Updated info: A client confirmed his 11,000 mile Dearborn 1969 Dominate 429 (March 5th 1969 build) too had the triple lenses. We also had another customer ostend his two/19/69 Metuchen congenital Grande had the triple lenses.

Wiper Motor Wiring Harness

On almost every restoration I've seen the windshield wiper motor harness is taped incorrectly to its prune or not at all. This picture of an original 7,000 mile 1970 Shelby is a neat example of how it should be done. In the picture information technology'southward hard to tell but the cloth electrical tape is 1/ii" wide (most standard cloth electrical tape come 3/4" broad).

Start by wrapping the tape effectually the wires by themselves to hold them together at an angle (see record in the middle of the two end wraps), and so continue to wrap one stop of the clip 2-three times and cut. The other side of the clip was wrapped ii-three times and cut. In some cases they would cross over to the other side of the prune without cutting the offset side. There were many methods used to wrap this wire harness just this mode seems to be the near common.

The windshield wiper harness was clipped into the far left pigsty on near every original automobile we've seen.

Steering Column Tube Finish

The right cease for 1969-1970 Mustang steering cavalcade tube that extends into the engine compartment is the same as the steering column inside the car.

That piddling bit you run into in the engine compartment is simply the end of the steering column tube you see inside.A mutual restoration mistake is to pigment this part of the tube semi-gloss black. The inner tube and the steering shaft was natural bare steel (done in phosphate for rust protection in this picture).

Steering Column Paint
Charcoal black poly lacquer
Ditzler DL32586

Hose Clamps

aka - The Knuckle Busters

Original production leap clamps used for fuel lines, vacuum lines (1970) and brake booster hoses are dissimilar from the ones available today. In the picture of the fuel line clamps yous tin can see the original clamp (left) has longer squared off tips and the reproductions are rounded and shorter. The right end for the fuel line clamps is argent paint. The right booster vacuum hose clench finish is black enamel pigment (finish code S22) per assembly manuals. Ford used this type of clench for the booster hose until sometime in 1972 when they changed over to i that had shorter squared off tips and then later changed to the round tipped version nosotros see today. If anyone has ever slipped a wrench and hit one of these clamps with their knuckles understands why restores call them the knuckle buster clamp. I would imagine this is why the manufacture of the clamps eventually went to the rounded ends nosotros see today.

Windshield Wiper Nozzles

1969 Mustangs and the 69-70Shelby windshield wiper nozzles have two holes in the nozzle head and were plated yellowish zinc dichromate. 1970 Mustang windshield wiper nozzles had one pigsty in the nozzle caput and were plated olive drab. Both years used the same soldered on mounting bracket with a large K stamped on the flat surface facing out. The 1969 version stayed in production until September two, 1969 according the Chief Parts Itemize. This means if you had an early on 1970 Mustang the 1969 way nozzle tin can be right. We will never know when each factory ran out of the 1969 nozzles and started to use the 1970 nozzles.

What's An Olive Drab Cease?
Olive drab is non paint. Its a dichromate chemical conversion finish like to xanthous dichromate. Dichromate is applied later on the part is plated with zinc. Yellow dichromate will not show signs of rust until it's exposed to 96+ hours of abiding salt-h2o spray. Olive drab dichromate volition last 150 hours before rusting.

How to Restore Them?
Observe a plater that can practise xanthous zinc dichromate (1969) or olive drab (1970). Make sure y'all clean the nozzles holes adept earlier you accept them plated and then the chemicals menstruation freely threw them. When y'all become them back from the plater clean the nozzles out once more to remove whatsoever residual acids used in the plating procedure.

1969 Interior Paint
This is an interior terminate guide sheet for the 1969 Fords published by PPG in the early on 1970's. Most paints are lacquer so they stale fast and didn't fill up in the textured finishes. Tip: Figure on several coats of lacquer to go an accurate and even terminate. If you lot demand to paint your panel, standard armrest etc we really like the SEM Landau Black paint 15013 (rattle can).

1970 Dominate 302 & MACH 1 Black Body Pigment

PARTS: Shaker hood scoop, shaker trim ring, rear louvers, louver hooks, rear spoiler, taillight bezels.
FACTORY: Semi-gloss blackness acrylic lacquer PPG DDL9423
MODERN Pick: Semi-gloss blackness urethane
PREFERRED SUPPLIER: TCP GLOBAL
WHAT TO ASK FOR: Telephone call and requite them the PPG paint code DDL9423.

PARTS: Hood, rear taillight console, deck lid and rear window trim
FACTORY: Textured Black High-Performance Mar Resistant PPG DDL9381 (Lacquer)
PREFERRED SUPPLIER: TCP GLOBAL
WHAT TO Inquire FOR: Call TCP GLOBAL and give them PPG paint code PPG DDL9381
Q UANTITY REQUIRED: 1 quart is enough to paint everything

MODERN DURABLE URETHANE Pick: TCP Muscle Car Texture Blackness - Hot Rod Flatz
URETHANE Awarding TIP: Spray fan wide and dry (non wet) and examination before applying
QUANTITY REQUIRED: one quart is plenty to paint everything

Armond's thoughts: I adopt to employ the modern urethane option for most restorations considering it'southward then durable and won't be affected by waxes, bird droppings, etc. If applied correctly information technology's difficult to tell the difference. If you're going for a high-level trailered bear witness simply restoration yous may consider the manufacturing plant lacquer paint to exist 100% authentic.

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